From top left: Traverse Bag, Maker’s Tote, Snappy Manicure Wallet, Cargo Duffle, Campfire Messenger Bag, Caravan Pouch

You know I’m crazy about snaps, right? Well, I am. It’s true (see above!). They’re beautiful additions to so many projects. You’ve found the right place for a snap tutorial – Metal Spring Snap!

Types of Snaps

Well, who knew there were so many snap styles to choose from. It can be so confusing and shopping online can add that hidden layer of uncertainty. I’m sure you probably found yourself wondering all sorts of things before trying them. What if I spend money on these and they don’t even work? Or if the color is wrong? Or it ends up not working for my project? Well, these spring snaps have slowly become my first choice for metal snaps. I also use ring snaps and pronged snaps (here’s my tutorial here for those). They are all doing the same function basically, but in slightly different ways using different setting tools.

I’ve been searching for the solution to having great looking snaps that are easy to install, and the spring snap is the winner in my mind. They can be used in clothing and accessories (i.e. bags, wallets, totes) – anywhere you need a snap! Plus, you only need a few basics to get started. 

Snap Sizes

Snaps come in different sizes, most commonly I use the Ligne 24 and Ligne 20 size snaps. If you want to dive way down the rabbit hole and get into the meaning of Ligne you can read about it here. It seems as though many manufactures skip the Ligne term and refer to their sizing in just the number format 24, 20, etc.

Supplies Needed

You’ll need:

• setting tool (these are specific to the size snap you’re using, a size 24 setter only sets a size 24 snap, etc.)

• snap

• something to make a hole in your fabric/leather (awl, leather punch (affiliate link), small sharp scissors)

• a solid/sturdy surface to install snap

Where to BUY (affiliate links)

Size 20/12.5mm (that’s the smaller of the two sizes that I recommend in my patterns):

• Rose Gold

• Mixed Metal Set

• Antique Brass

• Nickel

Size 24/15mm (is the larger of the two sizes I recommend, and the one I use most often):

• Rose Gold

• Antique Brass

• Nickel

• Mixed Metal

Parts of a Spring Snap

If you’re at all new to snaps, each snap consists of four parts: cap (that’s the decorative part that you’ll see on the outside of your project), socket, stud, and post.

The anvil and setting tools are made up of three parts. The anvil is double sided and the two setting tools are for the two different halves of the snap.

Ready? Let’s install a snap!

Install a Snap

First you’ll need to mark the location of the snap and punch a hole in your fabric/leather. I have a few different hole punches, the one in the materials picture is pretty handy. I also have a rotary punch leather tool and a hand punch tool. It’s up to you though, a small sharp scissors or an awl works for fabric applications, too. I used to always make do with what I had on hand, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. But I’ve come to realize that having the right tool for the job tends to make things go a lot more smoothly.

Next, I’m installing the stud and post part of the snap. So I’ve made my hole and the post gets pushed up through the hole (in this case, just the top layer of this pocket) from the back (wrong side of fabric) to the front. Then I rest the post on the anvil with the side facing up that has the small raised circle in the middle.

Next you’ll place the stud over the post. This particular snap, the pieces kind of click into place. After that, you’ll use the setting tool with the concave end and place that over the stud and hammer into place. You’ll want to hit it hard enough that the snap is tightly sealed over your fabric/leather. If you can see any gap, go ahead and hit it a few more times, maybe with a bit more force.

That’s it for the bottom half, the top half is very similar!

Once my hole is punched I poke the post part of the cap through the right side of my material.

Then I rest the cap on the anvil with the side facing up that is smooth and concave. So the cap is facing down, resting on the anvil.

Next, I place the socket over the post of the cap and use the setting tool with the convex end (the rounded out end) and place that into the socket where it’ll rest on the post of the cap and hammer it into place. Same as before, it’ll be nice and snug when installed correctly.

That’s it! Once you’ve set a few snaps, you’ll probably wonder about all the awesome projects you can add them to next.

I highly encourage you to do a test run and sacrifice one of your snaps if possible. It’ll give you a better feel for how things come together, plus it’s a nice ‘cheat sheet’ for when you’re installing them the next time. I always refer to my test snap before installing one on my finished project. It’s just nice knowing what part goes where and gives a boost of confidence, too.

If you’re in need of snaps, check out my recommended links above (under the “Where to Buy” heading). The setting tools are specific to the size snap you’re using. The size 20 setter WILL NOT set a size 24 snap or vice versa. So if you need both sizes, be sure to pick up a kit in each size. I’ve got a new pattern coming out next week (the Minimalist Wallet) that uses both sizes of snaps! So excited for it!

Here are a few past projects that use metal snaps:

Traverse Bag | Explorer Tote (large size for optional back pocket closure) | Maker’s Tote | Campfire Messenger Bag | Caravan Tote + Pouch

Snappy Manicure Wallet | Cargo Duffle | Zippy Wallet

Hope you enjoyed the snap tutorial – Metal Spring Snap!

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Hi everyone! Today I’m sharing a video of how to install a turn lock! Nothing fancy, but I hope it’ll help and give you a little more confidence when installing a turn lock for the first time. In the video I use a few supplies that I’ll list here:

• turn lock (screw version is my favorite or pronged version)

• a couple small scraps of fusible woven interfacing (Pellon SF101)

• small scrap of ultra firm single-side fusible interfacing (Pellon 71F)

• chalk pencil

• sharp scissors

• leather punch (optional)

• seam ripper

Click here to watch the video!

I hope this will be helpful and that you feel comfortable installing a turn lock. The tote I featured in this tutorial as well as the picture above is the large size of my Explorer Tote Pattern (below is a pic of the small size).

Let me know in the comments below if you have any questions. Thanks for stopping by!

The post How to Install a Turn Lock appeared first on Noodlehead.

There’s a million ways to make a tassel and because I’m seeing them everywhere now I figured it would be fun to share a little how-to with you! I had quickly made one before taking the final photos of my Explorer Tote pattern. I love how it adds a little fun and interest, plus it’s removable. So here we go…

Materials:

• soft leather works best (try suede or garment weight leathers or upcycle some leather from a jacket/pants/skirt from the thriftstore)

• glue (for your particular material), I used Elmer’s ProBond Advanced and it worked so well!

Because tassels come in all sizes it’s a really great project to use up small scraps! And materials are really something you can experiment with as well. I’ve seen people using cork fabric and they look amazing, so I’m guessing vinyl and just about anything else that doesn’t fray much would work just as well! Give it a try, it’s a low-commitment kind of project, so if something doesn’t work out it’s okay to start over. Also, check on etsy for scraps!

You also might want to consider adding other elements such as wooden beads or even metal beads would be great, too.

I’ll walk through the dimensions of this specific tassel, but take these basic steps and adjust them to make your unique piece, anything goes!

Cut your leather (or material of your choice):

• 5″ square for main body of tassel

• 3/8″ wide x 8″ tall for hanging loop

• 1/4″ wide (or less) x 12″ strip for decorative finish

Next, cut the fringe! This part is super fun. And it totally doesn’t have to be precise. If you’d like though, use a ruler, cutting mat and rotary cutter and cut the fringe 1/4″ wide each and 3 1/2″ from the bottom edge. You can certainly use a scissors and eyeball it, too!

After the fringe is all cut, align the the 3/8″ wide hanging loop piece, folded in half, to the very left side of the main tassel piece. You’ll want to place it at least a 1/2″ down from the top edge so that it won’t pull from the tassel once it’s finished.

Then go ahead and layer on the glue, you’ll need much less than you think. Here’s a shot of mine before I started rolling from the left. If you do have excess like I did, work quickly to wipe it off. I used a paper towel and it cleaned up really well. When you’re rolling the tassel just keep in mind to keep the top edge of the tassel aligned.

Once you have it completely rolled, wipe any excess glue and hold in place for a few seconds. The glue I used holds really well, so it only took maybe 30 seconds before I was able to let go.

Next step is totally optional of course, but I used the thin strip and wrapped it around the main part of the tassel towards the top and double knotted it. After everything is dry you can loop it around a bag’s handle.

That’s all! It really is a super quick and fun project that’s great for scraps! Hope you’ll give one a try!

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Hi there! Remember the Caravan Tote + Pouch pattern? Well, today I’m sharing my tips and instructions on how to install handles using rivets. As part of Sew Mama Sew‘s Super Online Sewing Match II, the Caravan Tote is the project for the third round of the competition. I’m so excited to see how the talented contestants interpret this pattern. It’s always fun to see everyone’s creative twist on a project, that’s what I love most about sewing!

Using rivets in bag making can take your projects to a whole new level, and they look awesome with the Caravan Tote.

p.s. you can totally do this!

Hardware is one of my most favorite parts of bag making. It adds a beautiful detail with professional looking results. I think hardware can be very intimidating to learn at first, but with a little bit of information and how-to, anyone can do it. Many times installing hardware is one of the last steps when making a bag, especially when it comes to attaching handles with rivets. You’ve working really hard to make an awesome bag, and then it’s rivet and handle time! I’ve been there and I know it feels scary. Hopefully with this tutorial and my tips, you’ll be setting rivets in no time flat – and with confidence!

[test rivets and materials, water-soluble pen, double cap rivet, finished strap, rivet setting tool or rivet press]

Materials:

• rivets (I typically use double cap rivets with an 8-9mm cap size and 6-8mm post length)

• awl/leather punch/rivet press

• rivet setting tool or rivet press that fits the size rivets you are installing

• soft hammer/mallot

• finished handles (fabric or leather)

• a bag to attach them to!

[Rivet setting tool, anvil and strike post]

[rivet cap on top, rivet with post]

Tips to get started:

• Rivet size. There are many types and sizes of rivets! Probably more than you’ve ever thought possible. Buying the right size and type for your project is cruicial in having success with your finished product. For most bags I recommend an 8mm or 9mm double cap rivet with a post length of 6-8 mm. Don’t forget about finding the correct post length! It helps determine how many layers your rivet will actually hold together. Having too long of a post length, your rivet won’t sit snugly on your handles, but having a post length that is too short will leave you with a rivet that won’t be long enough! Take time when you’re shopping. If the item description doesn’t list the information you need, contact the shop owner.

• Practice. No one ever has set out to do something they’ve never done before and been amazing at it the first time they try! Don’t expect yourself to know everything the first time. Everything is a learning process and a few practice tries will get you warmed up and ready for setting your first rivets on a real project. I usually set aside a couple small snippets of the same amount of layers/fabrics that I use for my finished project. It’s great to practice a few times with scraps to get a good feel for how everything goes together and to get acquainted with the tools.

Install rivet:

1. Mark rivet placement. I like to use a water-soluble pen for marking placement. I find it works for the particular leather handles that I use, but do a test marking with your materials that you’re using. I usually use the cap part of the rivet to get a good look at how things will work. I recommend setting two rivets per handle end. The bag pattern you’re using should suggest the distance between the straps, or align them to how you see fit.

   

2. Punch holes. Use and awl, leather punch, or rivet press, punch the hole in both the leather and bag using the markings you previously marked.

   
   

3. Align holes and push the rivet post through layers from exterior of bag to the interior. You can probably do it the opposite way as well, working from the inside of the bag, so do what works best for you after doing a few practice runs. Snap rivet cap in place on rivet post. Some rivet brands click into place, others may not.

   
   

4. Set rivet. Using the setting tools, or rivet press attach the rivet. Most likely if you’re new to using rivets a setting tool is the most affordable option. It comes with a strike post and anvil. The anvil is set on a solid surface, next aligning the attached rivet over anvil, then the strike post is the tool is set over the cap. With a soft hammer or mallot, strike the post with a few solid taps. A rivet press is a really amazing tool. Most also are able to be used for setting grommets or even snaps. They are fairly costly, so I do suggest trying the hand setting tools first.

   

That’s all! Pretty painless, right?! I think the more you practice, the more confident you’ll feel. I can’t wait to see all the awesome ways you’ll be incorporating rivets into your handmade projects!

In the past few years, I have spent hours and hours researching and sourcing hardware and straps. My patterns and book both include these resource links, plus more. It’s a search that I’ve been passionate about and have tried to learn as much as I can – and am still learning. I have personally used these shops and can verify that they sell high quality products.

Rivet supply sources (I typically use an 8mm head with a 6mm post or 8mm post length):
Minkus Margo on etsy
Buckleguy.com
Emmaline Bags

Leather Punch (affiliate link) – Tandy Leather

Handles:
Leather Handles (in my shop!)

The post How to Install Rivets appeared first on Noodlehead.

You love sewing with and using zippers, right? Well, if you’re new here, let it be known that I love zippers. Sometimes zippers can seem like some crazy contraption that’s out to get you, but if you know your way around a zipper, you’ll feel much more confident working with them. I’ll be covering a few common types of zippers and what the parts of the zipper are named.

Material:
Plastic coil – plastic coil zippers are quite easy to find at big box craft supply stores. They’re often referred to as an all-purpose zipper. I think they’re the easiest to use and get great results. Plastic coil zippers are easy to shorten. You can sew a few stitches (by hand or machine) over the zipper teeth where you need the length to be and then simply trim the zipper with a scissors 1/2″ past the stitches.

Metal – metal zippers have metal teeth and end stops. They come in many different finishes (nickel, brass, antique brass to name a few) and zipper tapes of varying colors. I love the look of a metal zipper. They are more difficult to shorten, but it can be done – with a little elbow grease and a needle nose pliers.

Zipper tape: 
Zipper tape is the ‘fabric’ that runs along the sides of the zipper teeth. Zipper tape lengths and widths vary my manufacturer and by zipper type. For example, the width of a purse zipper is approximately 1/2″ wider than that of a standard plastic coil zipper. Usually the wider the zipper teeth, the wider the zipper tape. Zipper tapes come in a variety of colors to coordinate with your project! Most commonly, zipper tape is polyester, but you can also find cotton and a few other specialty materials.

Separating or non-separating?

Separating zippers do just that, they separate when fully opened. Think of a jacket, that is a separating zipper. Non-separating zippers stay connected at one end when fully opened. Some non-separating zippers stay closed on both ends (such as a coverall zipper). It’s important to pay attention to what type of zipper a pattern calls for. If you try to use a separating zipper in place of a non-separating zipper, you could run into trouble. For example, separating zippers do not have extra zipper tape at the open end of the zipper, and if you would try to use one in place of a non-separating zipper you wouldn’t have enough zipper tape to properly install the zipper, thus leaving a gap or even making the zipper much more difficult to use. Non-separating zippers are also sometimes called closed bottom zippers.

Zipper Pull(s):

There are many ways a zipper can open. Most zippers are a one-way zipper. There are also head-to-head zippers, coverall zippers, and two-way separating. When purchasing a zipper pay close attention to what type of zipper the pattern calls for.

End stops:

The end stops are very important. Not only do they help you measure your zipper (see below for how to determine the length of a zipper), but they tell the zipper when to stop opening. The end stops of a zipper are usually metal on both plastic and metal zippers. You can buy replacement end stops and install them yourself, this comes in really handy when shortening a metal zipper. The end stops are located at both ends of a zipper, the pull-side (referred to as the top stop) as well as the end of the zipper (referred to as the bottom stop).

Invisible:

An invisible zipper is a great choice for, you guessed it, installing a zipper where you don’t want it to show on your finished project. Garments and pillows are both common projects that utilize invisible zippers often. You can install and invisible zipper using a regular zipper foot, but I find it’s well worth it to have a specialty invisible zipper foot. For my Janome, the invisible zipper foot only cost a few dollars and it really saves time. There are special channels that guide the invisible zipper coils and keep the needle in the perfect position. When the zipper is correctly installed, you can’t see the zipper – thus it’s invisible, like magic!

Measuring a zipper:
Teeth/Coil Size – It’s true, zippers are also measured not only by length, but also the width of their teeth/coil. For example a #3 size zipper’s teeth/coil is smaller than a #5 zipper, a #3 zipper teeth/coil is 3mm wide whereas a #5 zipper is 5mm wide. Most metal zippers I use in my projects are a #4.5. A #5 is fairly wide and is most likely designed for a project where you need a heavy-duty zipper. If you’re shopping online and the listing doesn’t tell you what teeth/coil size a particular zipper is, contact the shop owner.

Length – To determine the length of a zipper you measure from the top stop to the bottom stop. On a separating zipper, measure from the top (pull-side) stop to the end of the zipper tape (where the zipper would separate). That is the length! Easy, right?!

While this isn’t an exhaustive list of zipper types and features, I have tried to cover most of the common parts and types of zippers. Hopefully this information will help you next time your project calls for a zipper!

I’d like to thank Jennie from Zipit for helping me verify the information within this post and giving me permission to use a couple of her photos (teeth/coil size photos).

The post anatomy of a zipper appeared first on Noodlehead.

Lately I’ve gone a bit crazy with my love of metal snaps. I love all sorts of hardware and snaps are an awesome way to add a professional finish to lots of projects. I first designed the Cargo Duffle pattern and loved how the snaps looked and functioned. My Snappy Manicure Wallet pattern also uses snaps! Plus I have a few more projects coming up that also use snaps. Yay! I know that sometimes hardware can be intimidating, so I hope this tutorial will make things a bit less scary.

You’ll need the required size of snaps for your project and a snap setting tool and a hammer (a pin and water-soluble pen come in handy, too). I’ve had the opportunity to try several different snaps and snap setting tools and I’m excited to share with you my favorites.

First, I should talk about the snaps themselves. They’re commonly referred to as ‘heavy duty snaps’ or ‘pronged snaps’. Each snap is made up of 4 parts: cap, socket, stud, and open prong. Some manufacturers may have slightly different names for the parts, but of the brands I’ve used they’re basically the same pieces. Most are available with a capped top, but you can get open-ring style as well. They come in many different finishes, colors, and metals. And of course sizes, anywhere from size 14 to 24. You’ll have to choose which size you need based on your project, but I keep size 16 (for wallets and smaller projects, even shirts) and size 24 (for pocket flaps and more). Manufacturers usually recommend using snaps on heavier fabrics or/in addition to interfacing. Basically, you’ll want a sturdy spot to attach the snap.

My first choice of snaps are by Snap Source. I’ve used these since 2009 and have both size setting tools and they’re still going strong. Snap Source has many choices for colors and metal finishes, I really like the ability to choose whatever color/finish will work best for me. I think they’re really user-friendly and reasonably priced. I order directly from their site and usually have my snaps within a few business days (they’re based in Michigan). I believe some quilt shops carry them and possibly some other shops online (please leave a comment below if you know or currently stock these)? The snaps come with photo as well as illustrated instructions which are both really great. I think the trickiest part is figuring out which part of the socket piece faces up (both brands I use have a socket piece in which one side is raised).  I’ll share some pictures here and hopefully you’ll find your first install to be a breeze! Below you can see (hopefully!) the inner ring of the socket is slightly raised. That raised end will face the cap of the snap.

I also really like using Dritz Heavy Duty Snaps. I can buy them at my local Hancock fabrics, which comes in really handy when I have a coupon and need some quick. Mine use a 2-part setting tool and they’re just as easy to install as the Snap Source snaps. They only come in 4 metal finishes: brass, antique brass, black and silver (and a few other colors such as navy and white), but I find that works for the majority of my projects.

I have also used the Dritz snap pliers and I can’t recommend them unfortunately, the few pliers I’ve tried haven’t held the cap part of the snap in place very well, making install pretty difficult. Possibly they’ve changed/updated them since I’ve used them last?

I should also point out that it’s probably not a great idea to try and use snaps/setters from different manufacturers. Stick with one brand and use it’s designated setting tool.

Setting a Snap (Dritz on left, Snap Source on right)

I typically* first set the cap half of the snap first. It’s the most visible and I try to be precise and measure where I want to place the snap.

• Make a mark with a water-soluble pen then place the cap (prongs down) centered on the mark.

• Push the prongs through the fabrics and then lay the cap into the bottom part of the snap setter.

• The socket part gets added next with the raised part facing the cap (so raised side down in this case). With the Snap Source setter there’s a middle alignment piece that you place down on top that helps align the socket.

• Then place the strike plate on top and hammer into place. A few solid hits usually work for me.

To get the snap to line up, I use a pin and water-soluble pen to mark the placement after I set the cap half of the snap. You can set the Stud half of the snap first, but I prefer the other way, do what works best for you and your particular project.

• Once the Cap half of the snap is set, I fold the flap (or whatever you’re attaching) into place in it’s closed position. I slightly lift the flap and poke a pin into where the center of the snap hits on the fabric. I then lift the flap out of the way and make a mark where the pin is with my water-soluble pen.

• With the prong ring under my marked spot, I gently push the prong through from the back. It’s easy to tell if you’re off on your alignment. Just feel for the prongs and adjust as necessary.

• Once you’re set, push the prongs through and place the bottom of the snap setter in place underneath.

• Then place middle alignment piece (Snap Source), stud, and setter tool.

• Hammer into place just as you did when setting the cap.

*There are always exceptions to installation. For instance, with my Snappy Manicure wallet, you wouldn’t want the back part of the stud-half of the snap to show on the interior of the wallet, so the order of install is a bit different – the stud half of the snap is set first (which is explained in those instructions). Try and plan ahead in your particular project and you should do just great.

And what happens if I set the snap and I realize afterward that it’s crooked? Or if I don’t get it to set correctly?

No problem. I’ve been there, more than just a few times. I’ve found that with a little patience I’ve been able to remove mis-set or mis-aligned snaps with a flat head screw driver. Just be sure to be gentle when prying the parts apart next to the fabric and you should have no issues. Some brands of snaps actually puncture a hole when setting the snap, so I would be extra cautious when setting those. Do a few practice runs so you feel comfortable before attaching them to your finished project.

Happy snap setting! If you have any questions please leave them in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them below. And of course feel free to add in any tips or tricks you’ve learned!

I haven’t been contacted by any of these companies to review their products (I’m not that cool, haha), I simply want to share some helpful tips and tricks I’ve learned along the way.

The post Snap Tutorial appeared first on Noodlehead.

Once in a while i get asked about how I clean my handmade bags.  I wouldn’t say that I have it down to a science or anything, but I can offer some tips that might help you.  I don’t wash mine very often and usually only if there’s a huge spill on it or at the end of a season (I usually change mine with the seasons, don’t you?!).  I really like having the ability to put mine in the wash and freshen things up!

First, I don’t usually pre-wash my fabrics.  I used to all the time, but then it became overwhelming with piles of washed fabric sitting in the corner waiting to be pressed.  Pressing huge chunks of fabric is my least favorite thing to do.  So I gave up pre-washing (except for when I’m making clothes), but there are definitely a few things that I do that helps with anything that might go wrong in the first wash.  If you do pre-wash, you’re probably safe to wash the bag on the same setting as you did for the pre-washing.

Use a color catcher.  I jumped on the color catcher bandwagon after seeing Jeni use them for her quilts. I end up using them a lot and it’s always fun to see what colors get sucked up by the little sheets.

They’re similar to a dryer sheet, but these you throw in the washing machine with whatever you’re washing and it grabs onto any colors that are leaking out into the water.  Sometimes I throw two in if I’m feeling especially cautious.  I’ve only used these Shout brand, but maybe there are others available?

Use a Lingerie bag.  I’m sure you might already have these laying around or maybe you use them already.  It’s a zippered mesh bag used for washing delicate items.  I mostly end up washing my bags with a normal load of laundry and feel that the lingerie bag helps protect them.  Most of my bags that I’ve made have fit inside.  It helps to close any zippers, magnetic snaps or velcro strips before tossing in the bag.

Perfume/dye free detergent.  I exclusively use a perfume and dye free detergent.  But I think it’s always a good idea to use something gentle with handmade items.

Wash on cold.  Like I said before, I don’t pre-wash, so I think washing on cold would  help reduce any bleeding or shrinking and is definitely more gentle on fabrics.

Line dry!  I either lay them over a clothes line or lay flat on a dry towel.  I try and shape it back into it’s original shape and smooth out big wrinkles.  I wouldn’t dry a bag ever, just my two cents.  Plus if a stain didn’t come out, you’d have a much harder time getting the stain out if you dried the bag.

Press after it’s dry.  Whenever I’ve pulled my dry bags off the line they’re still not quite ready for using. Some are better than others, but I think a quick press with the iron in wrinkled spots really helps get that crisp look back.  I’d be a little conservative though on pressing, you don’t want it to shift any of the interfacing around.

Hope that helps a bit!  And don’t hesitate to ask questions, I’m sure if I don’t know, some other lovely readers might!

The post caring for your handmade bag appeared first on Noodlehead.

I just thought it would be fun today to do a little round up of sewing notions.  And before I get too far, this isn’t a complete list or a review of anything, just more of a casual type thing I thought might be fun to talk about.  And I’d love to hear any interesting tips or tricks you’ve picked up along the way.  I love hearing things like “my grandma taught me how to use ___ and it works really great”.  I had posted about the Zipper Ease product on Instagram the other day and there were a bunch of you that told me other tricks to use on sticky zippers.  How awesome is that?

Might as well start off with this product called Zipper-Ease.  I was excited that it’s made in Michigan.  It’s to help zippers that are sticky.  I find that sometimes certain brands of zippers are stickier than others.  I’ve used it on a few zippers just to try it and I think it’ll be really great when that perfect color zipper I need just needs a little help.

Sewline Glue Pen.  I just found this in my drawer of goodies.  I think I had purchased it when I was doing more paper piecing.  I’d love to know what you use it for.  Seems like a really great product.

Marking Tools. [Clockwise from top] My Hera Marker gets used fairly infrequently because I don’t do a ton of quilting.  I’ve used it a lot recently with my Cargo Duffles.  It’s great because it just leaves a crease for you to sew on.  Nothing to wipe of afterwards and for me it’s pretty easy to see where the marking is.  Next up is Clover Tailors Chalk, this one is new to me.  I’ve needed a light colored marking tool for a long time now and I think it’ll be perfect.  I purchased a Sewline Styla water soluble pen a few months ago.  I like the smaller point and how smooth it rolls.  I don’t think the color is quite dark enough sometimes, but other than that it’s been working great.  Last up for my marking tools is my Mark-B-Gone.  This one is my favorite.  It has lasted forever (I think 2 or 3 years?) and I use it almost every time I sew.  It’s felt tip is pretty wide after a lot of use, but it’s quick and leave a nice line.

Clover Fork Pins.  I just picked these up, too!  I’ve been curious about them for quite a while.  Perfect for quilting and patchwork or when you need to line up seams with a great deal of accuracy.  Hoping to give these a try more in the coming months.

Workhorses.  Yep, these ones really do their duty.  [From Top] My hem gauge gets toted along everywhere.  It’s a great little size for anywhere. I suppose it’s mainly for measuring hems, but useful for any kind of measuring.  There’s a little slider that you can use to make it easier to know where you need to measure.  Handy and cheap,  it’s one of my faves. Next is my bent and well loved chop stick.  This thing gets put through the ringer.  I use it for turning projects, it’s really great for pouches and poking out zipper ends.  I’ve also used it for random craft projects, such as mixing up glue.  Great,  huh?  

 My favorite scissors are these little Olfa snips I had gotten in the goodie bag at Sewing Summit.  They’re a great size and perfectly sharp!  These are one of the scissors in my house that is definitely off limits to everyone but me.  I’m greedy like that.  Oh, and I can’t ever seem to find them at any local stores.  If you know where to find them online leave a comment below! Lastly is a new seam ripper, again by Clover.  I actually love the one that came with my sewing machine, but a good seam ripper seems kind of hard to find.  I had a white Clover seam ripper but found it to be too dull, maybe I got a reject.  Anyway, I wasn’t terribly sad when I left it behind at a sewing meet up.  I’m hoping this brown one makes a good back up.  

Last up are my notions that hold things.  I couldn’t be without my Clover Wonder Clips.  They’re great for holding many thick layers together as well as being awesome when it comes to binding a quilt.  They’re pricey, but I think the value for outweighs the cost.  I also had my husband pick up some gigantic washers a while back.  I’ve been intending to make pattern weights like Jess did, but haven’t gotten around to it.  I just use them as is to weigh things down.  I also found that these make a really great marking tool to trace around for pocket corners.

Anyway, some of these are new to me and some I’ve used a long time.  I know there are lots and lots of other sewing goodies  out there, and I’m sure I forgot to include some of the ones I use.  I’d love to hear anything you love or don’t love about your notions, these notions, some other persons notions.  I’ve got a notion.  You know, spill it, I want to hear it!

Happy Friday!!!!

The post sewing notions appeared first on Noodlehead.

I remember what it was like inserting my first magnetic snap.  I was sweating bullets!  It’s one of those last steps when making a tote or bag or other project.  All I could think of was how was I going to fix it once I messed it up?!  But you know what, all the worry was really over nothing.  Anyway, I’ll show you how to insert a magnetic snap, no sweat, promise.

+ Supplies +

• sharp scissors

• some kind of fabric marking tool (I used a water soluble pen)

• scraps of fusible interfacing

+ Interfacing +
One of the little tricks I’ve come up with for myself is having those little scraps of fusible interfacing ready to go.  Whenever I’m cutting interfacing and I have a few smaller pieces, I’ll take the time and cut them into little 2″ squares.  I stuff those squares in a baggie with my magnetic snaps so the next time I’m ready to insert a snap – it’s ready to go!  Most frequently I keep Pellon SF101 (a fusible woven) and Pellon 81F (a fusible fleece) and I use them in combination.

You’ll have two pronged pieces and two washers per magnetic snap.

+ Size/Type +
Now I should mention that you’ll want to make sure you have the appropriate size magnetic snap for your project.  Most patterns/tutorials call for a certain size.  I do like to use a smaller 14mm size snap for pockets.  Some even have a lighter magnetic strength which is nice if you’re sick of trying to pry open a pocket for the millionth time.  I also really like working with a sew-in magnet (which is sandwiched between exterior/lining layers), they seem to hold things together nicely, but at the same time are really easy to open.  I can save that for another post though if you’re interested.

+ Where to Shop +
I now carry 18mm magnetic snaps in my shop in both Antique Brass and Nickel finishes (available in a 3-pack). You can also find smaller sizes on Etsy.

So we’ll start off with a little project in progress.  For this example I’m using a front pocket from my Super Tote.  I’ve assembled the pocket (pocket exterior, piping, and pocket lining).

You’ll be inserting the magnetic snap between the exterior and lining pieces.  You won’t want the back of these magnetic snaps to show. Below is a picture of the wrong sides of the exterior and lining pieces opened up and all set to go.

Step 1:
Mark snap placement. Using whatever marking tool you’ve got around.  a pencil works great too.  Make a mark in both of those little rectangles.

Step 2:
Cut slits where you marked to insert prongs. Make sure to use a sharp scissors!  And try to cut as small of a slit as possible.  I’ve also seen where people make small buttonholes where the prongs will go.  If you’re worried about fraying you can always dab on a little Fray Check.

Step 3:
Insert snap.  Push prongs through the slits from the right side of the fabric.  You can then take out the prongs and fuse on a layer of fusible interfacing.  It helps stabilize everything and holds up better for wear and tear.  I’ve fused on SF101 and then fusible fleece on top (gives the snap a little extra padding). You can either then push the prong back through the slits or snip through the interfacing carefully.

Push the prong back through.

Slide washer over prongs. Using the edge of your scissors blade, bend over the prongs.  I’ve seen where people bend them inwards too, I haven’t noticed a difference either way, so I usually just bend them outwards.

Step 4:
Fuse on more interfacing.  Yep!  Go ahead and take another scrap of SF101 and lay it over the top of everything and give it a good press.

Step 5:
Repeat steps 1-4 for installing remaining half of snap on project. Marking placement, cutting, inserting prongs, interface, bend over prongs, adding more interfacing and that’s all!

You’re all set!  I love to sit and open and close snaps (and zippers) when I’m done, it’s so fun and feels like a pat on the back.  You did it!  And I should mention, if this kind of magnetic snap isn’t your cup of tea, there are some really cute sew-in style snaps that I definitely want to try.  They seem like they’d make a really nice handmade touch to a project.  Okay, if you have any additional tips feel free to leave them in the comments.  

The post magnetic snap tutorial appeared first on Noodlehead.

Hi everyone, hope you had a great weekend.  Seems like lots of the US is having unseasonably warm weather this spring!  Of course it’s been keeping me busy outside enjoying the sun and the sounds of the neighborhood.  I thought it would be fun to share a little sewing technique I’ve picked up along the way.  Nothing groundbreaking or earth shattering, but useful nonetheless.

I love using piping in projects.  It’s won my heart in a similar way as bias tape.  I love that you can add a bit of color here and there and still keep things clean and classy.  I’ve often mentioned in my patterns and tutorials that you can use handmade piping, but haven’t ever gone into significant detail about it, so here we go.

Materials:

• fabric, a fat quarter works great!

• 1/8″ wide cording (or in my case some thin rope bought at home depot – hey, it does the trick!)

• steam-a-seam double stick fusible web tape (mine was 1/4″ wide)

• spray starch

First you’ll want to cut your fabric on the bias (in other words a 45 degree angle to the selvage edges).

There are techniques to make continuous bias tape (from a fat quarter – love that!) that you can use, but for me I like to keep it simple.  And because of the fact that just about every time I try to make continuous bias tape I mess is up somehow and have to scrap it.  A self healing mat, rotary cutter, and ruler work perfect for this, but you could also just mark the lines with a pencil and cut with your scissors.  Cut the strips on the bias at 1.25″ wide if you’re sewing the finished piping into a 3/8″ seam (1.5″ wide for using with a 1/2″ seam). I should note that you wouldn’t have to cut the strips on the bias, especially if your final project used the piping on only straight or very slightly curved seams, but cutting on the bias will give you the most flexibility.

Joining the strips.  Here’s where I like to spray a little starch and press the bias strips, keeps things in place and makes it easier to work with later on.  Place your strips right sides facing at a 90-degree angle like so:

Mark a diagonal line, sew along that line.  Trim the seam allowance.  Press seam open (or to the side) your preference.

Now for the fun part.  Instead of using your zipper foot, a basting stitch, and sewing the cording in place, we’re going to speed things up and in the process make it so you don’t have to worry about any basting stitches showing up later in your project.

Just place your cording centered on the wrong side of the bias strip you’ve joined, tear off a length of steam-a-seam and press it down in place.

Peel off the paper backing.  Fold over the bias strip and press in half with your iron, sandwiching the cording in the middle.

The fusible web holds everything in place.  That’s all!  Now go make some piping and add some fun to your next project!

Yay!

The post Tutorial: handmade piping appeared first on Noodlehead.

I’m hoping this will be a great resource for those of you new to sewing (and maybe some of you that aren’t so new).  Here are a few of the supplies I keep on hand at all times (hopefully).  I used to find myself going to the craft store/fabric store all the time to buy basic stuff, but now that I know what things I typically make, I keep those ready to use in my sewing area.  Just a few other notes, I always try and find a coupon to Hobby Lobby, Hancock fabrics (or Joanns), and Michaels when I know I need something.  It’s also a good idea to be sure to stock up on thread and maybe even some buttons you like when they go on sale at 50% off.

Here’s what a find myself using over and over again:

1.  Extra rotary cutter blades.  I purchase mine at Michaels with a 40% off coupon.

2. 45mm Rotary Cutter.  I didn’t picture the self healing mat, but you must have one to use with the rotary cutter, they come in lots of different sizes, but use a coupon!

3. Smaller scissors for detail work.

4. General scissors.  I do have a pair of dressmaking shears (scored big time as a gift), but I use the ones pictures here for everything, even cutting paper

5. Seam ripper.  Enough said.

6. Needles.  I’ve been known to go through 4 needles on a single step of a project before, so be sure to have a package handy.  I use 11 most often, but 14 and 16 are nice for making bags, etc.  Also pick up a few ballpoint needles for using when sewing with knits.

7. Zipper foot!  My friend.  Also for making piping.

8. Darning foot.  For free motion quilting.  I’ve used these on napkins, etc.  You can do really cool stuff with this foot, just think of it as sketching with thread.

9. Walking foot.  Definitely buy one of these if you plan on making any quilts.  It allows the fabric to feed through evenly, even when there are many layers.  I use mine on bags, etc. as well.

10. Chop stick, for poking out corners.

11. Water soluble pen.

12. Small flat head screwdriver for tightening the feet on my machine.

13. Fray check.

14. Elastic thread.

15. Pins, definitely buy the nicest ones you can afford, it makes it so much easier to push through fabrics.

16. Bobbins.  Keep a few extras on hand.  I rotate with about 8 bobbins, a must when you make a lot of different project.

17. Clear grid ruler.  It would also be a good idea to get one of those handy suction cup handles to make sure your fingers stay out of the way of your rotary cutter.

1. Glue gun.

2. Elastic.  Sizes ranging from 1/4″ to 1″ in width.

3. Spray starch.

4. Velcro.  I have 3/4″ and it seems to work well for a lot of different projects.

5. Safety pin.  For pushing elastic through a waistband casing.

6. Needle for hand sewing.

7. Twill tape.  I think it can add a lot of detail to a project as well as being useful for a 1001 other things.

8. Spray adhesive.  I used mine for my mail organizer, but I’ve also heard of people using it with making cards with fabric scraps.

1. Cotton webbing.  Fun for tote bags and more, lots of fun colors to choose from.

2. Grommets.  I like the special touch it adds to projects.  I have 7/16″ and 3/8″

3. Thread, lots of it, especially white, cream, brown.  I like to use 100% cotton thread for quilting.

4. Magnetic snaps.  For purses, clutches, etc.  I buy mine from BeingBags on etsy.

5. Zippers, my favorite notion.  I only keep 14″ and 8″ zippers on hand.  If I need another length or an invisible zipper I make sure to buy it on my next trip to the store.  I buy mine at Zipit on etsy.

6. Snaps/snap setter.  I use this brand, I really like the variety they have.  Size 16 covers most projects I’ve made.

7. Buttons.

1. Medium weight fusible interfacing.  I also have a bit of lightweight interfacing.  And it is handy to have some Peltex around (double sided fusible heavyweight interfacing).

2. Iron on adhesive, great for applique.  I have Heat n Bond, but I think Wonder Under is the same stuff?

3. Fusible fleece.  Great for bags, zippered pouches, give a nice padded effect and gives body.

4. Cotton quilt batting.

5. Polyester fill.  For making softies, your own pillow forms, etc.

6. Muslin.  I use a lot for lining pillows and this is another one for 1001 other uses.

7. Plain cotton canvas, great to use as a sew in interfacing for bags., etc.

I’m sure there are some goodies I forgot, so please feel free to leave any of your favorite essentials in the comments section!  I also want to note that these are the items I regularly use.  I did not receive any monetary compensation (or otherwise) for my opinion on any of these products.

The post Sewing 101: Supplies appeared first on Noodlehead.